Although Carménère is an ancient variety, it has been difficult to grow in cold, humid climates. It favors a longer growing season in a moderate to warm climate. Over-watering during harvest and winter accentuates the herbaceous and green pepper characteristics of the grape. If the climate is too warm for the grapes, the wine has a high alcohol level and low balance. In Bordeaux, Carménère required more heat than other varietals to ripen and often developed coulure, a condition in which the grapes soon after flowering fall off. Some yields were dramatically reduced and crops were rarely healthy.

Carménère grapes have a relatively high juice-to-skin ratio and generally produce wines that are not as astringent as Cabernet Sauvignon. In good years, Carménère flavors range from herbal, fruity flavor with smoke, spicy and earthy notes, tobacco, leather and chocolate, adding complexity and interest to blends. The wines are typically full-bodied and deep-colored. Aromas of red fruits, spices and berries are associated with Carménère wines. The wines are best drunk young.

Carménère was imported into South America in the 1850s, along with other Bordeaux varieties, prior to the outbreak of phylloxera. Many of the vines were misidentified as Merlot grapes for more than a century. The Chilean Department of Agriculture officially recognized Carménère as a distinct variety in 1998. Chile produces the majority of Carménère wines today, and as the Chilean wine industry continues to grow more experimentation continues with Carménère’s potential, including as a blending grape. Today, Carménère is grown primarily in the Colchagua Valley, Rapel Valley and Maipo Province.

Today, only a few hundred acres of Carménère still exist in France, but there are rumors of renewed interest among growers. Carménère is also grown in Italy’s Eastern Veneto and Friuli-Venezia Giulia regions, Walla Walla Washington and California.

Several weeks ago, our local wine store tasted the 2008 wine of the year, Casa Lapostolle’s Clos Apalta Colchagua Valley 2005. Before tasting “the wine,” I sampled Casa Lapostolle Estate Cabernet Sauvignon so I could compare. While it was good, it didn’t compare to “the wine.” However, I mentioned it to Jonathan, and he was set on tasting it since he missed tasting Casa Lapostolle’s Clos Apalta Colchagua Valley 2005.

Casa Lapostolle Estate Cabernet Sauvignon appears rich with deep burgundy colors. It provided nice aromas of oak, red fruits, currents and leather. I was pleasantly surprised with the amount of oak. Just enough was present to add a nice touch. (I’m not a fan of excessive oak.) It was pretty evident from the first sip this was a young wine. Jonathan and I immediately went for the decanter. However, our dinner was almost ready so the wine only had 30 minutes to decant. Casa Lapostolle Estate Cabernet Sauvignon showcased darker fruits and slight hints of spice on the palate. The wine was still very tannic leaving a furry feeling in the mouth. It did have a moderately bold finish. I think this wine needs a little more time before it reaches its prime. Give it a year or two and taste again.

Casa Lapostolle Estate Cabernet Sauvignon is a blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Carmenère, 6% Petit Verdot and 3% Cabernet Franc. 70% of the blend was aged in used French oak barrels, and 30% was aged in stainless steel tanks. The 2005-2006 growing season was fairly normal, but the late summer temperatures were cooler than usual. This forced vineyards to extend the hang-time of grapes in order to reach proper maturity. Luckily, there was no rainfall during the harvest.

Casa Lapostolle is owned by the Marnier-Lapostolle group, of Grand Marnier fame. The winery was founded in 1994, and owns three different vineyards, growing Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Carmenère and Syrah.