When I started drinking wine I never once paid attention to the vintage of the wine. Thinking back, I probably didn’t even know what it meant. I was more concerned with the grapes and what winery it was from. I’m not an expert, or do I ever intend to be one. However, I do consider myself more knowledge than the average person since I starting learning about wine. Last weekend’s edition of The Wall Street Journal wine column, focused on a tasting of the 2006 first growth Bordeaux wines. The authors clearly did not like these wines as was evident with the title, “When First Growths Place Last.” However, recall just a year before when these same wines were commanding over a $1,000 a bottle. Same wine, same grapevines, just a year difference. So it made me think. What’s really in a vintage?

Placing vintages on wines started as a way to alert customers to certain years when the weather was bad and led to a disappointing wine. These wines were generally more affordable for the consumer. Mother Nature was not always the winemakers friend, especially in Europe. Most California regions don’t face major differences year to year. By definition, vintages are the year the grapes were harvested and a vintage chart reflects the weather conditions for that year. Better weather results in a better rating for a vintage and a higher likelihood the wine will age well.

Blending two different vintages is illegal. I found this example on Jeff Miller’s blog from Artisan Family of wines. “So let’s say you’ve done a blending trial and decided the best blend is all Cabernet Sauvignon, 80% from the 2006 vintage, and 20% from 2007.  Tough luck—that would be illegal.  So you can do one of two things:  not put a vintage date on the label (no one does that because the consumer expects it), or cut back the 2007 to 5% of the blend (or to 15% of the blend if you’re willing to put “Napa County” instead of “Napa Valley” on the label).”

Within the last 20 plus years winemaking has changed because of technology, but before this winemakers played only a small role in the vintage drama. Nature carried the cards and would have the final say as to the quality of the wine. Now, even in sub-par weather years, skilled winemakers can produce a tasty wine. For example, too much sun can lead to overripe, high alcoholic wines, but too much rain can lead to thin, watery wines.

Vintages are categorized by the media once – the spring following the harvest. The wines are young and still in the barrel. This has led to inconsistencies over the years because wines are a living thing that continually evolves. For example, a vintage that was declared excellent at this first tasting could later be considered just average or vice versa. While it’s important to take note of the first classification, it’s even more important to know what the growing season was like. So remember those vintage charts will evolve just like the wine.

Most recently, 2005 was thought be an excellent vintage in most of Europe, but if your going to shell out major bucks for a specific vintage research is always recommended. I call it being a smart shopper and getting the most for your money. Even if your only buying a $15 bottle of Bordeaux, wouldn’t you rather have an outstanding vintage rather than just a so-so one? Personally, I’ve been grabbing up 2005 Bordeaux bottles left and right, many aren’t age worthy, but I’d much rather sip on one of these than an inexpensive something else.

Miller, of Artisan Family of Wines, wrote an interesting blog on wine labeling craziness. Check it out here.